Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast Podcast Por Eric J. Hörst capa

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

De: Eric J. Hörst
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Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 45 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage Nutrition. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 500,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.comCopyright 2024 Eric J. Horst | All Rights Reserved Higiene e Vida Saudável Preparo Físico, Dieta e Nutrição
Episódios
  • #134: 22 Ways to Improve Climbing Endurance and Get Less Pumped
    Oct 6 2026

    Think you need more endurance because your forearms get pumped? Maybe—but that may be only part of the problem.

    In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down 22 practical ways to become a better endurance climber, spanning physiology, technique, tactics, mental control, and smarter training. You'll learn why climbing economy matters as much as fitness, how to build a stronger aerobic engine without turning every session into a sufferfest, when and how to train anaerobic power-endurance, and why strength, pacing, footwork, breathing, resting tactics, and confidence all influence how long you can keep climbing hard.

    The goal isn't simply to tolerate more pump. It's to become a more efficient climbing machine—wasting less energy, recovering faster, and arriving at the upper crux with more strength and control still in the tank.

    • If you love the T4C podcast, please leave a 5-star review on Apple or Spotify and share this episode with a friend or climbing partner!
    Podcast Sponsors

    Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes!

    • Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINIC
    • Save on La Sportiva shoes here >>
    • Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only)

    European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com.

    Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx

    Connect with Eric Hörst

    📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter
    Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe.

    📱 Follow Eric
    Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing
    YouTube: Training For Climbing
    Twitter: @Train4Climbing
    Facebook: Training For Climbing

    Music by Misty Murphy

    Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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    49 minutos
  • #133 - CRUSHERS: Kevin Dahlstrom on His Life Reboot, Injury, TRT, and Climbing Hard Over Age 40
    Sep 8 2026
    What if some of your best climbing is still ahead of you—even after age 40? My latest T4C Podcast guest, Kevin Dahlstrom, didn't climb his first 5.13 until age 50. Five years later, he was having the strongest season of his life and chasing 5.13c—until a freak accident in Mexico caused a catastrophic triceps tendon tear and major surgery. In this episode, Kevin and I dig into his comeback, training and recovery after 40, and why aging climbers need to become increasingly intentional about sleep, nutrition, mobility, recovery, and targeted training. We also explore health monitoring, testosterone, peptides, and Kevin's audacious long-term goal of climbing 5.14. But this conversation is about much more than climbing grades. Kevin left a highly successful corporate career in his late 40s to reorganize his life around something even more valuable: time. His idea of becoming a "time billionaire" sparks a fascinating discussion about aging, ambition, priorities, and how to stay strong, adventurous, and fully engaged with life for decades to come. Rundown 00:00 – Cold Open: Kevin's Midlife Reboot Kevin leaves a high-paying corporate career in Texas, moves his family to Colorado, climbs harder than ever—and then faces a catastrophic arm injury. 01:10 – Episode Introduction Introducing Kevin Dahlstrom, the CRUSHERS series, and the episode's central themes: climbing after 50, health, longevity, injury recovery, and becoming a "time billionaire." 03:15 – Interview Begins: Kevin's Best Climbing Season at Age 55 Kevin describes reaching the best climbing fitness of his life, sending multiple 5.13bs, and falling from the final move of a 5.13c. 06:12 – The Freak Accident in Mexico A foothold breaks on a warm-up route, sending Kevin into a tufa and completely tearing his distal triceps tendon from the elbow. 10:05 – Surgery, Rehabilitation and Returning to Climbing Kevin explains the cadaver tendon graft used to reconstruct his arm and his carefully graded return from 5.6 toward harder climbing. 12:03 – Climbing His First 5.13 at Age 50 After two decades as a trad climber, Kevin sets an audacious goal of climbing ten 5.13s in one year—and succeeds. 14:40 – Discovering Climbing and Becoming a Traveling Weekend Warrior Kevin recounts finding climbing in a Dallas grain-silo gym, leading his first trad route the following weekend, and eventually taking around 20 climbing trips per year. 16:36 – Walking Away From Corporate Success Despite reaching the C-suite of a multibillion-dollar company, Kevin realizes that professional and financial success have not made him happier. 21:00 – Running Toward an Irresistible Life Kevin explains why major life changes are often driven not by what we're escaping, but by something meaningful that we feel compelled to pursue. 23:15 – The "Time Billionaire" Concept A billion seconds equals roughly 30 years. Kevin explains why time—not money—is ultimately our most valuable and irreplaceable asset. 25:48 – Kevin's Training Approach After 50 Climbing outside three to five days per week, trying extremely hard, supplementing with hangboarding, and increasingly prioritizing mobility. 28:50 – Balancing Hard Projects With Pure Enjoyment Why projecting can be deeply satisfying—but not every climbing day needs to become a redpoint battle. 31:05 – Identifying Kevin's Limiting Constraint At 6'3" and approximately 200 pounds, Kevin discusses strength-to-weight ratio, bouldering power, and why V7–V8 movement is becoming his performance bottleneck. 32:31 – Targeted Training and System-Wall Climbing Eric recommends carefully progressed Kilter Board or Tension Board training to build maximum strength, power, and high-end bouldering ability. 35:00 – Why Masters Climbers Should Pick Their Battles Older climbers may benefit from selecting inspiring routes that fit their strengths rather than trying to master every possible climbing style. 41:17 – Can You Still Improve in Your 40s, 50s and 60s? Kevin and Eric challenge the belief that climbers are automatically past their prime at 40 and discuss why older athletes must "turn the screws tighter" on the details. 44:30 – Tracking Health and Performance Biomarkers Why longitudinal blood testing can provide a valuable dashboard for understanding changes in recovery, energy, hormones and overall health. 45:33 – Kevin's Experience With Testosterone Replacement Therapy Kevin discusses declining testosterone, related symptoms, medically supervised treatment, recovery benefits, and why TRT may be a wash for climbing performance. 52:23 – Optimize the Fundamentals First Sleep, nutrition, resistance training, body composition and lifestyle should be addressed before considering hormone therapy or more advanced interventions. 53:40 – Peptides and the Longevity "Wild West" Kevin and Eric discuss the potential—and considerable risks—of peptides, including Kevin's medically supervised postoperative use of BPC-157. 56:08...
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    1 hora e 6 minutos
  • #132 - Climb Harder Through Self-Mastery: 9 Lessons for Better Training & Performance
    Aug 18 2026
    What if the biggest thing holding back your climbing isn't finger strength, power endurance, body weight, age—or finding the perfect training program? What if the real limiter is much simpler: you're not consistently doing the things you already know you should be doing? In this new episode of the Training for Climbing Podcast, I dig into 9 powerful principles for behavior modification and self-mastery—and how they can help you train more consistently, improve your nutrition, manage your time, recover better, and become a stronger, more disciplined climber. We'll explore everything from questioning the stories you tell yourself and building an athlete identity, to embracing invisible progress, keeping promises to yourself, and making decisions based on principles rather than emotions. Because long-term success isn't about being perfectly motivated or discovering some secret training hack. It's about controlling the controllables, showing up, learning from failure, and repeatedly doing the small things that move you toward the athlete you want to become. If you want to climb harder—and become better at the game of life along the way—give this episode a listen. 🎧💪🧗 The 9 Lessons for Self-Mastery: (2:30) 1. Question the story you keep telling yourself. (5:46) 2. You don't have to believe everything you think. (9:06) 3. Stop chasing goals—build the identity that achieves them. (12:30) 4. Small behaviors compound. (19:25) 5. Learn to love invisible progress. (22:28) 6. Use your past as data, not identity. (24:45) 7. Discipline means keeping promises to yourself. (27:07) 8. Let principles make decisions before emotions arrive. (29:19) 9. Control the controllables. (31:20) - Three important questions for you to answer today! The big takeaway: long-term climbing success isn't built on perfect motivation or heroic workouts. It comes from repeatedly making good decisions, learning from failure, protecting your health, showing up, and gradually becoming the athlete capable of achieving your goals. Let's go! Learn more on this topic. Listen to T4C podcast #124 - Possibility Thinking: 15 Concepts That Changed My Life >>Please leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts or Spotify, and share this episode with a climbing partner or friend! Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, PhysiVantage Nutrition, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 10% off a new BlueWater Rope with checkout code: ERIC_CLINICSave on La Sportiva shoes here >>Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with code: PODCAST15 (North America only) European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx Connect with Eric Hörst 📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe. 📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing Music by Misty Murphy Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    38 minutos
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