Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast Podcast Por Eric J. Hörst capa

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

De: Eric J. Hörst
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 Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, climbing coach, researcher, inventor, and accomplished climber of more than 45 years. Founder of TrainingForClimbing.com and PhysiVāntage Nutrition. With his unique combination of veteran climbing and coaching experience and knowledge of the latest climbing research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world's most knowledgeable climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 500,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.comCopyright 2024 Eric J. Horst | All Rights Reserved Higiene e Vida Saudável Preparo Físico, Dieta e Nutrição
Episódios
  • #127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap

    #127 - Turning Gym Gains to Real Rock Performance: Bridging the Gap
    Apr 7 2026
    After a winter of disciplined training, stronger fingers, improved fitness, and high motivation, most climbers head outdoors expecting breakthrough performances. But the reality often hits hard—routes feel awkward, sequencing is unclear, your mind spirals with fear, and the pump sets in faster than expected. In this episode, Eric Hörst breaks down the critical gap between gym strength and outdoor performance—and why even your best training cycle doesn't guarantee immediate success on real rock. The truth is simple but often overlooked: Climbing outdoors is a far more complex, nuanced, and mentally demanding game than climbing indoors. Eric introduces a powerful framework for understanding this transition and delivers five actionable strategies to help you quickly regain movement efficiency, sharpen your mental game, and unlock your true performance potential outside. If you want to turn your winter training gains into real sends this season, this is a must-listen episode. ⏱️ Key Points & Timestamps [0:15] Intro + The Spring Reality Check [2:20] The Big Truth: Strength ≠ Performance (Yet) [4:00] Gym vs. Outdoor Climbing—Critical Differences [7:40] The Real Limiter: Inefficiency Podcast Sponsors Thank you to La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes! Save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx 🔑 Gym to Crag Transition Strategies [12:30] Strategy #1: Treat Early Sessions as Pre-Season [15:05] Strategy #2: Prioritize Volume Over Difficulty [17:00] Strategy #3: Reframe Projecting Early Season [20:45] Strategy #4: Rebuild Technical & Mental Skills [25:28] Strategy #5: Be Patient—Trust the Process ⚠️ Important Considerations [28:20] Injury Risk During Transition 🧠 Wrap-Up [32:30] Final Takeaways Efficiency is the gateway to performance Build volume, refine movement, stay patient Your strength is there—unlock it on the rock ⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! Podcast Sponsors Save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Blue Water Ropes Connect with Eric Hörst 📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe. 📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing Music by Misty Murphy Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    35 minutos
  • #126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!

    #126 - 15 Quick (Powerful) Tips to Climb Your Best This Season!
    Mar 10 2026
    Spring climbing season is here—and it's time to translate all those winter training gains into real performance on the rock. In this episode, Eric Hörst shares 15 practical mindset and strategy tips to help you climb your best this season. While physical strength matters, experienced climbers know that mindset, decision-making, strategy, and emotional resilience often determine whether you send or fall short. These quick but powerful ideas will help you approach training, projecting, and performance with greater clarity and purpose. Apply even a few of these insights consistently, and you may find yourself climbing with more confidence, better focus, and improved results this season. Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx Key Takeaways from This Episode 1. Separate Outcomes from Identity Results are feedback—not a judgment of your worth. Treat success and failure like a scientist treats data: information that helps guide your next attempt. 2. Care Deeply, But Stay Detached Commit fully to preparation and effort, but let go of rigid expectations. Peak performance happens when you care—but remain mentally loose. 3. Widen Your Perspective Fear narrows perception. When frustration or anxiety creeps in, step back and consider the bigger picture of your climbing journey. 4. Recognize Self-Sabotage Many self-defeating behaviors stem from fear of failure. Notice the pattern and commit fully—remove the escape routes. 5. Design Your Environment Your surroundings influence behavior more than willpower. Set up your environment so good choices become automatic. 6. Build Confidence with Evidence Confidence comes from past effort and experience. Remember the training sessions, challenges, and setbacks you've already overcome. 7. Stay Calm Under Pressure True toughness is the ability to make clear decisions when stress rises. Pause, breathe, and choose the next smart action. 8. Align Effort with Purpose Grinding through pain isn't always productive. Growth comes from intentional stress followed by proper recovery. 9. Pursue Mastery, Not Just Metrics Grades and performance numbers are useful indicators—but mastery of movement, skill, and understanding is the real long-term goal. 10. Break Plateaus with Novelty When progress stalls, change something. Train in a new place, climb with new partners, or modify your routine to spark fresh momentum. 11. Choose Tradeoffs Intentionally You can't do everything at once. Decide what matters most this season and accept the tradeoffs required to pursue it. 12. Consistency Beats Intensity Big breakthroughs rarely come from a single heroic effort. Progress is built through consistent, focused sessions over time. 13. Use Checkpoints Break large goals into smaller, achievable steps. Mini-goals provide feedback, motivation, and a sense of progress. 14. Find the Performance Sweet Spot The best training happens just beyond comfort—but short of overwhelm. When challenge and skill align, the flow state emerges. 15. Recovery Completes the Cycle Stress only drives adaptation when it's followed by recovery. Prioritize sleep, nutrition, rest days, and periodic deloads. Final Thoughts Climbing your best isn't just about strong fingers or hours spent training. It's about bringing together physical preparation, mental resilience, and strategic decision-making. The tips in this episode are simple—but powerful when practiced consistently. Show up prepared, stay curious, remain patient with the process, and keep refining your approach. Over time, those small improvements compound—and the sends will come. ⭐ Enjoy the podcast? Leave a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and share this episode with a climbing partner! Podcast Sponsor Save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Connect with Eric Hörst 📬 Training for Climbing Newsletter Get monthly training insights delivered to your inbox. Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to subscribe. 📱 Follow Eric Instagram: @eric_horst | @training4climbing YouTube: Training For Climbing Twitter: @Train4Climbing Facebook: Training For Climbing Music by Misty Murphy Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    20 minutos
  • #125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid

    #125 - EXPERT: The Great Nutrition Reset - Unlocking the New Real Food Pyramid
    Feb 5 2026
    In this episode, Eric Hörst and nutrition science graduate student Jonathan Hörst discuss the newly updated U.S. dietary guidance and the concept of a "flipped" or re-prioritized food pyramid that emphasizes nutrient density, whole foods, and protein—rather than carbohydrate-heavy intake patterns of past guidelines. Drawing from current nutrition science and academic discussion at the University of Utah, they explore both the strengths of the update and the practical challenges of applying it. Key takeaways for climbers and athletes include prioritizing adequate protein, limiting ultra-processed foods, choosing whole-food carbohydrate sources, and matching carbohydrate intake to activity level. The episode concludes by emphasizing individualized nutrition, performance context, and consistency over perfection. Jonathan also provides some breakfast and dinner tips for climbers looking to optimize energy availability, performance, and recovery. RUNDOWN 0:30 - Intro to New Food Pyramid 1:00 - About today's expert, Jonathan Hörst, from Department of Nutritional Science at the University of Utah. 2:20 - Seismic changes to the USDA food guideline for Americans 6:00 - Guidelines catching up to modern nutritional science 9:35 - Inverting the old food pyramid 11:40 - 6 major changes to the nutritional guidelines for health and disease prevention 12:00 - #1 Prioritize protein 16:15 - #2: Added Sugar Gets a Hard Line 19:15 - #3: Whole Grains Yes — Refined Carbs No Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). European climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV Shop or Oliunid.com. Mexican climbers visit PhysiVantage.mx 21:35 - #4: Lower-Carbohydrate Diets Are Acknowledged 25:35 - #5: Ultra-Processed Foods Are Explicitly Called Out 31:50 - #6: A More Nuanced Approach to Fat Intake 37:30 - Key takeaways & actionable items for climbers 40:00 - Examples of healthy, effective fueling at breakfast and dinner 47:00 - Jonathan's current training and climbing goals 49:40 - Contact Jonathan vis DM on Instagram: @jonathan_horst 49:55 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 50:30 - Hörst out! A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2026 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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    51 minutos
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